Japan Auto Modification » Engine modification http://www.jsxjw.com Tue, 02 Aug 2011 05:18:26 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 HOW TO KEEP YOUR ENGINE FROM OVERHEATING (AND WHAT TO DO IF IT DOES) http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-keep-your-engine-from-overheating-and-what-to-do-if-it-does.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-keep-your-engine-from-overheating-and-what-to-do-if-it-does.html#comments Fri, 01 Apr 2011 14:30:56 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=228 [...]]]> A young driver, let’s call her Laura, is driving to a neighboring state to visit a friend. It’s a hot summer day, and she has her air-conditioning on. Halfway to her destination, she stops at a drive-through for a coffee. As she is about to pull away, the window attendant remarks that Laura’s car appears to be leaking. Laura pulls over but doesn’t see any dripping. She continues driving. Ten minutes later, she notices steam coming out from under the hood. In a panic, she speeds up in order to reach her destination quickly. When she arrives, she immediately gets out of the car and opens the hood to check her engine.

Luckily, Laura’s engine was okay; she simply had a leak in her cooling system. Unfortunately her parents were livid, as her actions put her at risk and could have damaged her engine beyond repair. Let’s take a look at some of the things that Laura did wrong.

First, engine overheating is often caused by a leak in the cooling system. This system circulates antifreeze (also a coolant) around the engine system in order to draw heat away from the engine as it converts fuel into thermal energy, which is used to power the car. When Laura pulled over to check her suspected leak, she should have checked the level of coolant in the antifreeze reserve tank. If the level was lower than normal, she could have added water to the system. While water isn’t a permanent replacement for antifreeze, this would have at least allowed Laura to get safely to the nearest service station.

Checking antifreeze levels regularly can help to prevent engine overheating in the first place. However, there are a number of other causes of overheating, including a malfunctioning fan, a blockage in the cooling system, and excess strain on the engine.

Second, Laura should have been paying more attention to the temperature gauge on her dashboard. When this gauge reached the red or “H” portion of the spectrum, she would have known to start taking preventive measures to cool her car. These include:

1. Turning off the air conditioning, as this strains the engine.
2. Turning on the heating system. This may seem counterintuitive. However, the heating system uses excess heat from the engine to warm air flowing into the car. Turning on the heater actually draws heat away from the engine and into the passenger compartment.
3. Shifting into neutral at stoplights and then depressing the accelerator slightly. This increases airflow across the radiator and speeds up the flow of coolant around the engine.
4. Trying to move as steadily as possible in stop and go traffic. Speeding up and stopping puts more strain on the engine.

If these steps had no effect, Laura should have pulled over and waited for her engine to cool before continuing to drive. She could also have placed a damp (not wet) piece of cloth on the engine to speed cooling.

Third, Laura should have stopped as soon as she noticed steam coming out from under her engine. This steam is actually the coolant beginning to boil off. Once the coolant is gone, the engine’s temperature will continue to increase unchecked. This can result in serious and irreparable engine damage. She should have pulled over and called a tow truck to take her to the nearest service station.

Fourth, Laura should not have opened the hood while steam was still coming out. At this point, the engine is extremely hot and pressure is building in the radiator. Opening the radiator cap could result in severe burns. She should have waited until the engine had cooled completely to open the hood.

Had she followed these steps, Laura wouldn’t have put herself—and her car—in serious danger; she also wouldn’t have been banned from borrowing the family car.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Battery”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!
]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-keep-your-engine-from-overheating-and-what-to-do-if-it-does.html/feed 0 Defensive Driving Means Insurance Reduction In The State Of Texas http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/defensive-driving-means-insurance-reduction-in-the-state-of-texas.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/defensive-driving-means-insurance-reduction-in-the-state-of-texas.html#comments Thu, 31 Mar 2011 22:26:54 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=236 [...]]]> By completing a state approved defensive driving course such as DefensiveDriving.com, you’ll not only improve your skills as a driver—you also could be eligible to save money on your insurance! Many of the leading insurance companies in the state of Texas offer various kinds of “safe driver” discounts, including discounts for completing a defensive driving course.
These discounts can be anywhere from three to twenty percent off your automobile insurance premium; most discounts are valid for three years. After completing your defensive driving course, contact your insurance provider with a valid certificate of completion to claim your discount. If you’ve already completed your course—don’t worry! Most companies will allow you to apply for this discount any time within three years of completion.
Below are some of the top Texas insurers that offer a discount for completing a defensive driving course. However, you should contact your local agent to confirm that this discount applies to your policy.

· State Farm
· Farmers Auto Insurance
· GEICO, GEICO Indemnity, & General Insurance Company
· USAA County Mutual Insurance Co.
· Southern Farm Bureau Casualty
· USAA
· Mid-Century Insurance Company
· Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company
· State Farm County Mutual Insurance Company of Texas
· Liberty County Mutual Insurance Company
· Colonial County Mutual Insurance Group
· AAA Texas County Mutual Insurance Company
· Safeco Insurance Company
· Amica Mutual Insurance Company
· Germania Insurance Company
· Metropolitan Lloyds Insurance Company of Texas
· Infinity County Mutual Insurance Company
· General Insurance Company of America

For more information on insurance companies and agents operating in the state of Texas, check out the Texas Department of Insurance website. This website has contact information for leading insurance companies, agent contact directories, lists of top insurers in various categories, and lots more information:
http://www.tdi.state.tx.us/
Even if you don’t see your company on the list, they may still offer a discount. Contact an agent in your area for more information.

Tips:
Any additional individuals listed on your insurance policies can realize savings if they also take defensive driving.
If taking the course for insurance only, you can take the course again if you get a ticket (as long as you have not dismissed a ticket with defensive driving in the past 12 months)
DefensiveDriving.com is state approved and consumer approved – it is the most popular online course in Texas since 2000!

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/defensive-driving-means-insurance-reduction-in-the-state-of-texas.html/feed 0 Road Rules: Know Your Signs! http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/road-rules-know-your-signs.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/road-rules-know-your-signs.html#comments Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:59:21 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=224 [...]]]> Road signs are there for your safety and protection—listen to what they have to tell you! Road signs are designed to be self-explanatory and easy to follow; however, they can at times be quite confusing.
For example, we all know that a red light means stop, and a green light means go. I will confess, however, that I ran two red lights yesterday. Driving in an unfamiliar neighborhood, I was tired and hungry. My passenger was giving me haphazard directions (left…uh…right…uh). The radio was on. I simply didn’t see the light. While I’ll address distracted driving specifically in a later post, for now I want to give you My Cardinal Rule of Signs: they don’t work if you don’t see them. As you drive, make sure that you keep scanning above and to the side of the road in order to spot all relevant signs and lights.
I’ll begin my discussion of road signs with a brief overview of stoplights, as this appears to be a particularly troubling category for me.
STOP LIGHTS
*Red lights—whether they are blinking, solid, or an arrow—always mean stop. “Stop” means come to a full stop.
*Yellow lights mean slow down. Unless you are already in the intersection when the light turns, begin slowing down in order to come to a full stop at the stop line or crosswalk.
*Green lights mean go. However, there is a caveat. You can only go once the intersection is clear. If there are slow pedestrians, bikers, or other cars still in the intersection, you need to wait until they have moved on.
Now, on to signs. Each year, the Federal Highway Administration publishes a Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices (MUTCD), which explains national signage standards in great detail. If you’d like a very thorough review of traffic signs, check out their website:
http://mutcd.fhwa.dot.gov/
I’ll provide a (much) briefer overview here. The MUTCD divides signs into six categories: regulatory signs, warning signs, guide signs, motorist service signs, construction signs, and recreation and cultural interest signs. Each category of sign uses different shapes and colors.
REGULATORY SIGNS
These signs are the signs that tell you what you must or must not do on the road. Stop signs, yield signs, one-way signs and do not enter signs all fall into this category. Other kinds of signs with white backgrounds—like parking signs, no U-turn signs, keep right signs, etc.—are also regulatory signs.
Stop signs are perhaps the most common, and also most important, member of this category. Remember that the main point of a stop sign is to prevent collisions in an intersection. This means that you need to come to a full stop BEFORE the stop sign, either before the crosswalk, if there is one, or before the stop line. If you stop and then realize that you can’t see into the intersection, you can pull forward a bit to check for traffic. Only do this after you have come to a full stop, however.
You’ll also encounter stop signs that are attached to school buses. When a school bus stops, flashes its lights, and extends the stop sign, you need to stop behind the school bus and wait until the driver has signaled for you to pass and/or turned off the lights and retracted the sign. It is illegal to try to pass a school bus when its lights are on. Remember that there are likely children crossing the road!
Yield signs are another common kind of regulatory sign. Yield signs are triangular, with a red rim and white background. When you see a yield sign, slow down so that you can stop if you need to. Allow other cars, bicyclists, and pedestrians to pass before you proceed.
WARNING SIGNS
These signs, which always have a yellow background, are designed to warn drivers about upcoming obstacles. Most of these signs are diamond shape. Depending on the image displayed on the sign, warning signs can indicate that you are approaching a sharp curve, a pedestrian crossing, or another hazard. One of these signs is round. This is the sign that indicates a railroad crossing, and it is the only round sign in use!
GUIDE SIGNS
These are the all-important signs that keep you from getting lost! These signs indicate the route, highway, or street that you are travelling on. These signs are often, but not always, green.
MOTORIST SERVICE SIGNS
Frequently, but not necessarily, blue in color, these signs let you know what services are available on the route that you’re travelling. They indicate where you can get food, gas, and lodging, along with other important services like hospitals. On a long road trip, these signs can be a godsend!
CONSTRUCTION SIGNS
Constructions signs are always orange diamonds. They let you know about any approaching construction hazards.
RECREATION AND CULTURAL INTEREST SIGNS
These signs are always brown. They contain information about interesting sights near the route you are travelling on, including places like national parks, museums, and monuments.
And now…
Don’t Be That Guy!
Many of us are tempted to speed up when we see a yellow light, in order to avoid having to stop at the red light. Resist the temptation…don’t be that guy! Other drivers and pedestrians will be expecting you to slow down; they may also pre-empt their own green light and/or walk sign. Don’t create a risky situation at the intersection. Always slow down as soon as the light turns yellow.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/road-rules-know-your-signs.html/feed 0 Engine Maintenance- a little goes a long way! http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/engine-maintenance-a-little-goes-a-long-way.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/engine-maintenance-a-little-goes-a-long-way.html#comments Tue, 29 Mar 2011 11:25:52 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=212 [...]]]> Now that we’ve discussed some common engine problems, let’s look at ways that you—together with a trusted mechanic—can nip these problems in the bud and prolong the life of your engine.

First, take the time to find a mechanic in your area whom you trust. If you’ve just acquired a car or moved to a new area, take some time to shop around and get quotes from different mechanics. I’ll write more about this in a later entry, but for now, remember that having a good relationship with your mechanic will take stress out of your life and the life of your car.

Next, make sure to follow the tune-up schedule recommended by your car’s manufacturer. You can find this information in your owner’s manual. How often your car needs a tune-up depends on how much you drive, so this schedule will be listed in terms of both time and distance driven. A general rule of thumb is to have a major tune-up every two years or 30,000 miles (whichever comes first), with interim oil changes every 6 months or 6,000 miles (again, whichever comes first.) However, the exact schedule will vary from car to car.

At a major tune-up, your mechanic will inspect, clean, and often replace the parts of your engine that experience the most severe wear and tear. At a tune-up, a mechanic will often:
· Replace the spark plugs
· Replace the fuel filter and the air filter
· Replace the distributor cap
· Check the ignition timing
· Check the timing belts and replace if needed
· Clean and service the battery

In between major services, however, there are a number of small things you can do to make sure your engine is still in good working order. This way, you can spot potential problems before they develop into major issues.

CHECK YOUR OIL AND COOLANT
These are easy and very satisfying tasks; for those of us who don’t think of ourselves as “car people,” checking your own oil and coolant can give you a feeling of accomplishment. Try to check your oil at least once every two weeks.
First, park on level ground and wait for your engine to cool down before opening your hood. Then, locate your oil dipstick and coolant reservoir. The oil dipstick is often marked as “oil” and/or will be brightly colored (red, yellow, or orange.) It’s generally very easy to spot, as is the coolant reservoir. This will be a translucent tank off to one side of the engine, with “high” and “low” marked on it. See figure 1 below.


Figure 1: a typical car engine

Once you’ve located the oil dipstick, pull it out and wipe it off using a rag or paper towel. Then, stick it back in, wait a second, and carefully pull it out again. It’s important to do this in order to get a clear and accurate reading of the oil level.

Figure 2: oil dipstick, side view

Your dipstick will have a “high” and a “low” mark. Sometimes these will be marked with lines or with different patterns of scoring. You want to check that the oil level is close to—but not above— the “high” mark. If the oil level is too high, it’s likely something else is leaking into your oil tank. If the oil level is too low, you should add oil; if you aren’t familiar with how to do so, take your car to a local service station. Do, however, make sure that you only add the grade of oil specified by your car’s manufacturer. You also want to check the oil color. The oil should be a light golden brown and should be translucent. If it’s dark or opaque, it’s time for an oil change. If it’s a cloudy white color, then coolant or water is leaking into your oil tank.

Figure 3: tip of an oil dipstick

While the oil level is fine in the picture above, notice that the oil is a very dark brown color. This means that the oil is fairly old and should be changed soon, although not necessarily immediately.
To check your coolant, simply locate the “high” and “low” marks on the coolant reservoir and make sure that the coolant level is within these limits. WARNING: don’t take the radiator cap off when you check the coolant levels; if the system is still warm, there will be pressure in the radiator. Removing the cap could cause a nasty burn. If you have trouble seeing the coolant level in your tank (perhaps because your engine, like mine, is quite old), you can try shining a flashlight through the tank to better illuminate the fluid level.

Figure 4: coolant reservoir

CHECK YOUR BELTS
While you’ve got your hood open, take a moment to check the timing belts on your engine. You’ll see these near the front of the engine. They look like long elastic bands that have been stretched from the bottom to the top of the engine well.


Figure 5: timing belt

Check the belts to make sure that they don’t look frayed, cracked, or worn. If a belt looks damaged in any way, take your car to your mechanic for a tune-up.

CHECK YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
If you have a car with automatic transmission, you should also check your automatic transmission fluid about once a month. You may also want to check the fluid level if you notice anything odd about the way your car is (or isn’t) shifting gears.
First, consult the owner’s manual of your car. This manual will tell you where the dipstick for the transmission fluid is located. It will also let you know if the car engine needs to be running when you check the fluid (this is the case for many cars.)
Then, park in a level area and follow the same procedure as for checking the oil: pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, reinsert it, and then pull it out again. If the car engine is running or has just been running (i.e. the engine is still warm,) then the fluid should be at or near the upper “HOT” mark. If the engine is cold, then the fluid level should be at the lower “COLD” mark. The fluid should be clean, slightly pink and transparent; if it’s black, brown, or burnt-smelling, then it’s time to replace the fluid.

Overall, be aware of how your engine sounds and runs, and don’t be afraid to look under the hood from time to time! It’s not as daunting as it may seem.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/engine-maintenance-a-little-goes-a-long-way.html/feed 0 The Most Dangerous Hazard: Fog http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-hazard-fog.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-hazard-fog.html#comments Mon, 28 Mar 2011 15:48:09 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=222 [...]]]> Depending on where you live and travel, you may or may not encounter fog on a regular basis. No matter when, where, or how often you encounter fog, always bear in mind that this is one of the most dangerous road hazards out there. replica watches
In an ideal world, this entry would be very short. Driving in fog? Just don’t do it. However, it is not an ideal world, and you may find at some point that you have no choice but to drive through a patch of fog. While this isn’t the safest situation to be in, there are steps you can take to make sure that you complete your journey without incident (or accident.)
Fog consists of water droplets suspended in the air; driving through heavy fog is a bit like flying through a cloud. As a result, fog is often heaviest at night and in the morning. If possible, wait until mid- or late afternoon, by which point the fog is likely to have burned off. If waiting isn’t an option, then proceed with caution. Remember that fog can dramatically reduce visibility; in thick fog, visibility can be as low as ¼ of a mile!
First, make sure that your low beams and fog lights (the red lights next to your brake lights and yellow lights next to the headlights) are turned on. However, don’t turn on your high beams. Remember that fog is made of water and, like the surface of a lake, will reflect light. If you are putting more light out into the fog, more is being reflected back at your windshield, creating a glare that will further reduce visibility. So, avoid high beams; however, do keep your other lights on, as, without these lights, other cars may not be able to see you.
Next, as you would in any hazardous weather, slow down—and stay slowed down! Fog can affect your sense of your own speed, as we generally judge speed using visual clues (like trees passing in our peripheral vision) that fog obscures. Make sure you check your speedometer to make sure that you are actually maintaining a reduced speed.
Reduced visibility may also affect your sense of where you are on the road. For this reason, use the white line on the right side of the road (sometimes known as the fog line) to make sure that you are staying safely on your side of the road. If you use the center line to check your alignment, you could end up in a head-on collision.
While fog may impair your sense of sight, don’t make the damage worse than it has to be. Turn on your defrost and use your wipers to keep your windows clear, as the damp fog will quickly condense on your windshield. Use your sense of hearing to supplement your vision; turn off your radio and open one of your windows slightly, so that you can hear approaching cars even before you see them.
You also need to be aware of other cars on the road. While it may be tempting to “follow” the taillights of the car ahead of you, don’t get too close. Remember that you may not judge distance as well as you would under other circumstances, and therefore can’t stop as suddenly as you may need to. Make sure you don’t get to close to the car in front of you. Also, avoid any sudden moves that may disturb the drivers behind you, such as suddenly stopping or turning. If you need to slow down or stop, begin by tapping your brake lights to alert drivers behind you and then slow your vehicle as gradually as possible.
If you should need to stop for any reason, avoid doing so while still on the road. Try to find a rest stop or other safe place to pull over. If you are unable to make it to a safe stopping place, then try to pull as far off the road as possible. Never stop in the middle of the road when fog occurs, even if the thickness of the fog makes continuing your journey safely impossible. Get as far off the road as you can and turn on your emergency lights.
And remember: the first rule of fog is: don’t drive in fog. The second rule of fog is: don’t drive in fog. The third rule of fog is: don’t drive in fog.
You get the point.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-hazard-fog.html/feed 0 How A Car Engine Works- Part 1 http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-a-car-engine-works-part-1.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-a-car-engine-works-part-1.html#comments Sun, 27 Mar 2011 07:30:06 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=215 [...]]]> The car engine is the heart—or perhaps rather the stomach—of the car. In the engine, gasoline is burned to produce energy; this energy is then converted into motion. An engine has a number of components that work together to ensure this intricate piece of machinery continues to function smoothly.
First, there are the cylinders, in which gasoline is converted into energy, which is then harnessed to move the car.
Next, there are the valve train, which regulates the intake of fuel and the output of exhaust, and the ignition system, which insures that the spark plugs ignite the fuel in the cylinders at the correct time. chrysler extended warranties
Engines also have a starting system, which consists of a separate, electric powered motor that is used to get the car going.
The cooling, exhaust, lubrication, and fuel systems respectively make sure that the engine doesn’t overheat; exhaust is filtered and released; all parts receive necessary oil; and the proper fuel mixture is injected into the engine.
Let’s start with the cylinders.
Basically, a car engine is a kind of internal combustion engine. This essentially means that a fuel-air mixture is burnt inside a closed chamber in order to produce mechanical motion. In a car, this process occurs inside a cylinder.
You may have heard of “V6” engines. This refers to the number of cylinders contained in the car engine; in a “V6” engine, there are six cylinders that are arranged in a “V” configuration, with three on each side. Historically, American automakers have tended to prefer V6 engines. However, Japanese makers began using highly efficient 4-cylinder engines in the 80s and 90s; these engines are often more fuel-efficient and produce lower Carbon emissions. V6 and four-cylinder engines both have pros and cons, which are worth considering when buying a car.
Now, let’s take a look within an individual cylinder. A cylinder is a sealed system that has a number of moving parts that are kept well lubricated with oil. Before we look at the actual combustion process, let’s take a moment to identify some of the key components of the cylinder. Here is a diagram of an engine cylinder, pictured at each of the four points in the combustion cycle (more on this later):

The exhaust and intake camshafts are the two ovaloid shapes at the top of the cylinder. They regulate the opening of the valves.

The valves are the two plugs below the camshafts. They open to allow fuel in or exhaust out; they close to seal the chamber during combustion.

The spark plug is the coil located between the two valves. The spark plug ignites the fuel-air mixture.

The piston, the square, olive-colored part in the middle of the cylinder, moves up and down in the cylinder to compress the fuel-air mixture and move the crankshaft.

The piston rings (not pictured) create a seal between the piston and the cylinder. This prevents fuel from leaking out of the chamber and oil from seeping in.

The crankshaft, pictured in cross section at the bottom of the image, is a rotating shaft that converts the piston’s vertical motion into the circular motion the car needs to move forward.
The sump (not pictured) contains the oil that lubricates the system. It surrounds the crankshaft.
To power the car, these parts work together in a four-stroke combustion process. This is also known as the Otto cycle, after the German engineer Nicolaus Otto, who built the first car with this kind of engine in the 19th century (an interesting story for another day!)

This process occurs in four steps, or strokes: the intake stroke, compression stroke, combustion stroke, and exhaust stroke. First, remember that the crankshaft is turning throughout this cycle in order to move the piston up and down. Each of these four points in the cycle is illustrated in the image of the cylinder above.

INTAKE STROKE (I) —the intake valve opens. The piston moves down to allow the air and fuel mixture to fill the cylinder. The intake valve then closes, sealing the system.

COMPRESSION STROKE (II) —the piston moves back up to compress the fuel and air mixture in the sealed chamber. This increases the power of the combustion.

COMBUSTION STROKE (III) —a spark from the spark plug ignites the fuel and air mixture. Rather than “exploding” outright, the mixture burns. This causes the mixture to expand rapidly as gases are produced and heated. Since the chamber is sealed, the expansion of the mixture forces the piston down.

EXHAUST STROKE (IV) —once the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens to release the exhaust, i.e. the “leftover” gases that remain in the cylinder after combustion is finished.
In a car engine, the cylinders work on staggered cycles. Basically, while half of the pistons are moving on a downward stroke, the other half are moving upwards. Since all cylinders are connected to the same crankshaft, the downward stroke of half the cylinders powers the upward stroke of the other half, and vice versa. Therefore, once the system gets going, it becomes self-sustaining.

So just how does the system get started? That depends on the starter system, which I’ll explain, along with the other components of the engine, in part two.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-a-car-engine-works-part-1.html/feed 0 The Most Dangerous Game: Distracted Driving http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-game-distracted-driving.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-game-distracted-driving.html#comments Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:27:37 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=219 [...]]]> While driving, have you ever: eaten a sandwich? Had a cup of coffee? Had a deep conversation with a friend? Tried to keep two children from fighting? Taken a phone call? Taken off or put on a coat? Fussed with the radio? Sent a text message?

Like most of us, you’ve probably done at least one of these things while driving. Some of these activities, like having a conversation, may appear relatively harmless. Others, such as texting, are more obviously dangerous, not to mention illegal. The truth is, however, that all of these activities can and do lead to distracted driving.

Many of us drive frequently enough that driving comes to seem second nature—more habit than something that demands our full attention. However, driving, even in ideal conditions on familiar roads, always has the potential to be a hazardous pursuit. In fact, it’s often on the most familiar roads that we need to pay the most attention. This is because our brains easily become accustomed to routine so that, driving a familiar route, we see what we expect to see. It’s thus really easy to miss new hazards or obstacles: construction work, fallen trash cans, pedestrians, children, bicyclists, etc. Our full attention is required, no matter where we are driving.

I’ve occasionally noticed that, on both long highway drives and short routine drives in my neighborhood, I go for a length of time without consciously “seeing” what’s around me, because I’m lost in my own thoughts. I’ve always been a notorious daydreamer, and so, over the years, have had to condition myself to keep looking at the road and surroundings, rather than getting lost in my own mind. This is my own particular brand of distracted driving; however, there are many different causes of driver distraction.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) defines distraction as any activity that takes the driver’s full attention away from the road. There are three kinds of distractions:

  • VISUAL: something that causes the driver to look away from the road (turning to talk to someone, check the radio station, read a text message.)
  • MANUAL: something that takes a hand off the steering wheel (eating, drinking, answering a phone call.)
  • COGNITIVE: anything that takes the mind away from the road (being in the grip of strong emotions, daydreaming, having a conversation.)

All of these distractions are dangerous. However, a study sponsored by a group of major carmakers found that, of all distractions, visual ones are the most dangerous. It took many hours of sophisticated and expensive research to reach a basic conclusion: keep your eyes on the road.

Recently, distracted driving has become a major topic of concern, as the use of cell phones and other hand-held electronic devices continues to rise. In a recent study, 71% of adults between the ages of 18 and 49 admitted to using a cell phone while driving. A University of Utah study recently concluded that, whether hands free or not, the cognitive distraction produced by a phone conversation delays a driver’s reaction time as much as having a blood alcohol level of .08%—the legal limit for driving.

It’s tempting to think that one can get away with the occasional distraction, like answering that really important call or putting on make-up in the car to save time. However, distractions cause up to 25% of all car crashes annually—about 4,300 crashes a day. In 2008 alone, distraction-related accidents resulted in 6,000 fatalities. Even if you are willing to put your own life on the line by texting or eating a sandwich, don’t risk the lives of other drivers and pedestrians. Also, note that a number of states are starting to institute bans on cell phone use and/or texting while driving. You can find an updated list of state regulations regarding cell phone use here:
http://www.distraction.gov/state-laws/

So, you now know the importance of focused driving and the terrible consequences of not paying attention. Now, what can you do to be a more focused driver?

  1. First, make a real commitment to driving attentively. Take a zero-tolerance policy towards your use of distractions.
  2. Next, notice what your “bad habits” are and try to minimize their impact. For example, I love to listen to the radio while I drive. To avoid having to look down to change the station, I’ve preset my favorite stations so that I can flip through them using the track changer on my steering wheel. I can listen to the music I like without taking my eyes off the road or hands off the steering wheel. Creating mix CDs or MP3 playlists, and then sticking to a CD (or set of CDS) or playlist throughout the drive are other great ways to minimize this particular distraction.
  3. Change your attitude toward your car. Don’t view it as a mobile home/work station/entertainment center. It’s a vehicle meant to get you from one place to the other. Eat before you leave home or after you arrive. If need be, try to get going a few minutes earlier, so that you have time to do your hair and make-up, make necessary phone calls, write e-mails, etc. etc. before you depart or once you’ve parked.
  4. Most importantly, turn off or silence your phone before you start driving and put it somewhere out of reach. This way, you’ll resist the temptation to receive calls or read texts. You could also invest in drive-safe software for your phone. These programs, which can be automatically activated when you start your car, will respond to incoming calls and texts with a message that alerts others to the fact that you are unavailable and will call them back when you reach your destination.
  5. Also, be careful not to let your mind wander too much. Keep your eyes on the road and don’t drive when overly fatigued. Be careful about driving when in the grip of strong emotions—a topic I’ll cover in greater detail in my next entry.
  6. Finally, if you are a young driver or are the parent of a young driver, try to set a good example for your peers and/or children. Drivers ages 16 to 25 are the most likely to engage in distracting behaviors, particularly texting, which—as a combined visual, cognitive, and manual distraction—is perhaps the most dangerous form of distraction of all. Since these drivers are also the least experienced drivers on the road, this is a very risky combination. Discuss these issues with the young drivers in your life and lead by example.

For more information on this important issue, check out the official distracted driving website of the US Department of Transportation: http://www.distraction.gov/

You can find out more about cell phone and driving at a page run by the Federal Communications Commission: http://www.fcc.gov/cgb/driving.html

Finally, for a more personal look at the impact of distracted driving, check out the summary of a recent Oprah episode on the topic: http://www.oprah.com/oprahshow/End-Distracted-Driving.

If you’re still unconvinced about the perils of distracted driving, these stories will likely change your mind.

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/the-most-dangerous-game-distracted-driving.html/feed 0 How to Take an Online Defensive Driving Course for Ticket Dismissal in Florida – wikiHow http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-take-an-online-defensive-driving-course-for-ticket-dismissal-in-florida-wikihow.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-take-an-online-defensive-driving-course-for-ticket-dismissal-in-florida-wikihow.html#comments Fri, 25 Mar 2011 12:14:58 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=239 How to Take an Online Defensive Driving Course for Ticket Dismissal in Florida – wikiHow
]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/how-to-take-an-online-defensive-driving-course-for-ticket-dismissal-in-florida-wikihow.html/feed 0 Zen and the Art of Long Distance Driving http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/zen-and-the-art-of-long-distance-driving.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/zen-and-the-art-of-long-distance-driving.html#comments Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:22:53 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=221 [...]]]> I’ve been thinking a lot about distance driving recently. This is because I’ve been doing a lot of long-haul driving recently, which has given me plenty of time to think about how to drive long distances in as safe and as painless a fashion as possible.
Anyone who is a frequent road traveler has probably developed his or her own ideas about what makes a drive both safe and fun. The key to successful long-haul driving is really a matter of finding what works for you. Today, I’m going to offer a mixture of my own observations and other pieces of advice I’ve been given over the years, both by road safety experts and other regular road-trippers.
Overall, the secret to a successful drive is probably similar to the secret of a happy and healthy life: don’t stress. Stress is the body’s natural reaction to a difficult or potentially threatening situation. When under stress, your entire physiology changes: blood flow changes, heart rate and blood pressure increase, hormone balances are altered. Not only does prolonged stress have long-term health impacts, but short term stress can really wear you down as well. As a result, an hour of stressed-out driving—say, in bumper-to-bumper traffic—can be far more grueling than three hours of stress-free driving an open road.
The moral of the story: plan and execute your trip to minimize stress.
First, prepare for your trip. Get your car serviced a week or two before heavy driving, so that you’ll have time to address any issues that may arise. Check the weather forecast a few days in advance, so that, if possible, you’ll be able to avoid heavy rain or snow, even if this means leaving a day early or arriving a day later. Also try to time your trip so that you are driving during daylight as much as possible. The reduced visibility of night-time driving makes it far more stressful.
If you are passing through or near major cities, try to time your trip so as to avoid rush hour; if you can, take a break for breakfast or dinner during peak traffic hours. Plot your route in advance and make sure you are familiar with the basic outlines of your trip, so that you don’t have to consult a map or GPS constantly but also won’t get lost. The day before your trip, drink plenty of water to prevent dehydration and then get a good night’s sleep.
Once you do get on the road, attitude is key. Don’t push yourself to get to your destination as soon as possible. I used to think that the sooner I arrived, the happier I would be, as I’d be spending less time on the road. I’d stress myself out rushing to get there, and then would arrive so tired, high-strung, and cranky that I’d ruin the rest of the day for myself and my friends. Try, as much as possible, to enjoy your time on the road. If driving with friends, see it as a chance to have the kind of prolonged, oddball conversation one so rarely has enough time for. If driving alone, you have some precious time with yourself to reflect or simply enjoy the quiet. If done right, a long haul drive can be immensely relaxing.
Finally, break your trip into manageable chunks. In general, 500 miles is a good limit for a solo driver; 600 is possible, but pushing it. Keep in mind that long-haul truck drivers, who are seasoned driving professionals, are not legally allowed to drive more than eleven hours per day, after which they must have at least ten hours off duty.
On the highway, try to find a comfortable speed for yourself and stick with it. Don’t ignore speed limits, as they’re designed to keep you safe. The middle lane is often the best place for a long trip, as the flow of traffic will keep you from speeding but you won’t usually end up stuck behind a particularly slow car or truck. Do keep in mind that your speed tends to creep up over the course of a long drive as you get accustomed to going quickly; check your speedometer every now and then to make sure you haven’t accelerated too much. Also, don’t tailgate. Tailgating reduces your visibility, which also reduces you ability to react to road hazards and/or sudden moves on the part of the car in front of you.
Next, don’t be afraid to take breaks. Instead of seeing a day’s drive as a single unit, break it up into segments in your mind. Having little goals along the way will help you feel that you’re making concrete progress, rather than tackling a huge and unmanageable distance. For example, I like to stop at a rest station every two to three hours or so. I get a snack and stretch my legs; if I’m feeling really antsy, I’ll run around the parking lot or do a few stretches. I also try to drink water gradually throughout my trip, using a sport-top bottle so I’m not forever fussing with the cap. This way, I stay hydrated, which keeps me alert, and also have to take a comfort break every few hours, which makes me resist the temptation to power through a long stretch of highway.
As you drive, beware of drowsiness! Fatigue can creep up on you unexpectedly, so make sure you stay aware of how you feel. Turning on the air-conditioner or opening the windows can help to keep you alert. Try to listen to fast-paced, upbeat music, as this is more likely to keep you alert than something more sedate. Bring along an iPod or a few CDs with some of your favorite music or a really interesting book on tape. I, for one, listen to top 40 pop while dancing and singing in the driver’s seat; I’m sure other people on the highway laugh at me when they drive past, but it keeps me happy and awake.
Endless snacking can seem like an attractive solution to boredom. However, try to avoid eating too much sugar, as a sugar “rush” will end in an energy low, while salty snacks can make you dehydrated. Aim for a mix of different kinds of snacks; some also suggest that you alternate fruit juice with soda. Be wary of eating heavy meals, however, as these can make you pretty drowsy.
Also, don’t be afraid to stop! If you do become fatigued, don’t push yourself. Even if you aren’t in immediate danger of falling asleep at the wheel, your reaction time is significantly slower when you are tired. Stop at a motel if you find yourself becoming exhausted towards the end of the day. Also try to stick to your normal sleep schedule. If you normally go to bed around eleven, then don’t drive late into the night. I often find that I hit an afternoon low between three and five pm, so I’ll try to plan a stop during this time. You can even take a short nap in the car if you need to. For safety reasons, park in a well-trafficked area and lock your doors before falling asleep.
I’ll talk more about distracted driving in a later segment. For now, I’ll paraphrase advice I’ve received: “be the car.” Don’t take your eyes off the road and make sure that you’re able to freely access all controls and pedals at all times. When driving alone, I am careful to position all of my food and drink so that I can reach it without looking for it. I peel any fruit I may want to eat and open packages of food and bottles of soda. I also decide on what I’ll be listening to for that leg of the trip—CD, iPod, or radio—and stick with that until my next stop. Finally, I make all the calls I need to make before I set out. I then put my phone on silent so that I won’t be tempted to check my messages or answer calls.
Opinions on cruise control are mixed. Some driving experts believe that the use of cruise control decreases driver awareness, making it a danger. Personally, I find it very helpful. Using cruise control keeps my speed within safe limits and prevents cramping in my right leg; I also find that it makes me more aware, as I’m constantly trying to judge my speed relative to the car in front of me, in order to decide if I can safely keep cruising or not. I use cruise control when I can, but I think it’s a personal choice. Notice how you drive with and without cruise control and then choose the option that makes you a safer and more comfortable driver.
This point brings me back to where I started: know yourself as a driver. Budget some extra time for your trip, so that you don’t have to rush. Keep trying to find little things you can do or games you can play with yourself to make the trip more engaging. Take care of yourself, respect your limits, and enjoy the experience.

To learn more about this cars and driving, or a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

Check out these sites for more information about online defensive driving in Texas, online defensive driving in Florida, and business driver safety.

]]> http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/zen-and-the-art-of-long-distance-driving.html/feed 0 Keeping It Clean: Car Exteriors http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/keeping-it-clean-car-exteriors.html http://www.jsxjw.com/car-engine-modification/keeping-it-clean-car-exteriors.html#comments Wed, 23 Mar 2011 12:31:36 +0000 http://www.jsxjw.com/?p=211 [...]]]> A well-washed car is a thing of beauty: bright and shiny, the envy of the parking lot. A dirty car, on the other hand, invites derision; children write “wash me” in the grime on the rear window. Beyond maintaining aesthetic value and avoiding personal shame, however, keeping your car clean has a practical purpose. Grime and dirt retain moisture, which speeds up rust and corrosion, thereby ageing your car prematurely. A well maintained car will look almost new after ten years on the road, while a poorly kept car may look ancient after just two or three years.

As a last resort, you can take your car to an automated drive-through carwash. This is, however, a bit like washing your face with steel wool and a hairdryer; the harsh environment of an automated car wash will eventually do more harm than good to your car’s delicate paint finish. Take the time to wash your car yourself. It won’t take more than an hour, and you’ll be proud of the results. Plus, it’s nice to be outside on a fine day, and cleaning can be a soothing and meditative activity.

There are three steps to washing a car: washing, polishing, and waxing. The first step, washing, should be done every month or so to prevent grime build up. The next two steps can be done every three-four months, as a good coat of wax should last about this long. Polishing helps to remove surface imperfections like small scratches and prepares the surface for waxing. Waxing then creates a protective coating over the paint job and helps to “seal” any chips or cracks. If you haven’t waxed your car in recent memory (or ever), consider taking it to a detailing shop first. There, professionals will use an electric buffer to remove minor scratches and impurities in the paint before waxing; this will make it easier for you to apply wax yourself in the future.

What You’ll Need

· A garden hose
· Two buckets full of warm or cold water
· A car soap or shampoo (avoid using other soaps, like dish detergent, that aren’t specifically formatted for cars, as these can damage the paint)
· Two soft cloths or wash mitts
· 100% cotton towels, chamois leather, or microfiber cloths
· Car polish
· Buffer pad for applying polish and towel for removing it
· Car wax
· Sponge for applying wax
· Steel wool and/or brush for cleaning tires

Washing

1. Choose the right day. You want a day that is warm enough for you to be outside for a while, but not too hot, or the car will dry quickly and you’ll end up with soap and water stains. Overcast days are great; otherwise, pick a shady spot for your washing.

2. Mix your car soap into one of the buckets filled with water. Check the bottle and be sure to use the recommended amount. Too much soap can damage the car’s finish, while too little won’t get the job done. Use the other bucket for rinsing out your cloths, so that you don’t get grime in the water you’re using to wash the car.

3. Next, hose down the car to remove outer layers of dirt. Avoid using pressure hoses, as these can damage chipped or cracked paint.

4. Wet one of your soft cloths and begin washing the car. Start at the top of the car and work your way down. Since the bottom of the car is usually much dirtier than the rest, you may want to use a different cloth for tackling this part of the car.

5. Rinse off each section of the car after washing it. You don’t want to let the soap dry, or you’ll end up with streaks.

6. As you progress around the car, keep rinsing the car off with the hose, so that the surface stays wet. Allowing the car to air dry will result in water spots.

7. Once you’ve washed the body of the car, use the steel wool and brush to clean the tires and the tire wells, where a lot of dirt tends to accumulate.

8. Finally, dry the car. Chamois leather or microfiber cloths, which are soft and absorbent, are ideal for this. However, 100% cotton towels make good substitutes for these products. To dry the car, lay a cloth over one section of the car to blot up the water. Then, use a dry towel to absorb the remaining moisture.

Polishing and Waxing

1. Once the car is dry, begin to polish it. Apply a 1-inch circle of polish to your buffer pad. Then apply this polish to a 2-foot square of car exterior.

2. Apply the polish in a circular motion. Finish with a few back-and-forth strokes to make sure you’ve evenly covered the area.

3. Allow the polish to dry. Then, remove it with a dry cloth or polish removal mitt.

4. Once you’ve polished the car, it’s time to apply the wax. First, make sure to get a good quality wax (often with Carnauba wax in it.) Avoid getting a wax with abrasives. Read the labeling carefully and test the wax on a small and unobtrusive part of the car first.

5. Provided your test goes okay, proceed to wax the rest of the car. Apply wax to the sponge and spread it in a thin and even layer over the surface of the car. Avoid getting wax on plastic and rubber trim, as it can stain these parts of the car. If you do get wax on these surfaces, you can clean it off with window cleaner.

6. Once the wax has dried, use another dry towel to buff the wax to a high shine.

Additional Steps

1. If you like, you can apply tire finish to tires to give them a black and shiny glow. However, beware that these products can stain your driveway, so if you don’t want black marks there, put newspapers underneath your wheels.

2. You can also use products like trim preserver and window polish to enhance the shine of glass and rubber components.

Stay tuned for part two—how to clean the interior of your car!

To read more on a broad range of subjects from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Car”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!

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